Under the spell of "aurinko"

The historic industrial settlement of Fiskars followed Hvitträsk, and became Heikki's crossroad for his return to Helsinki. We began traversing a land of forests and thousands of lakes. The latter seemed to belong more to the image that one creates after studying a road map than to the reality we encountered. For some odd reason, roads in Finland seem to have been designed to avoid contact with these lakes, which not too long ago constituted the main transportation network of the country.

"The Finnish landscape is rich in meaningful and convincing architecture, forms that reach out to the senses and portray a human scale. In Finland, one seems to live with and among the natural elements and nature is expressed in the architecture through simple and clear forms. A great deal of care is taken with the formation of every architectural detail and the structures seem to animate the surrounding landscape. In Finland, architecture and nature exist together and complement each other." Diana Anderson

And in this landscape, Alvar Aalto's architecture is ubiquitous.

"Nature loving, the Finns lead a modest life, preferring quiet and comfortable settings, embracing rather than hiding away from their harsh climate. They have without doubt established a strong tradition in modernism and continue to employ and evolve the movement without hesitation, a strong sign of their optimism and courage in adopting and adapting the modern way of life. Young designers there have plenty of room for experimentation, although their father of modern Finnish architecture, Alvar Aalto, is a force difficult to diffuse easily. Details are treated with extreme care and precision, right down to the door handle, and the spirit and legacy of Alvar Aalto lives on in the minds of many Finns. This is a nation where architecture is perceived as a crucial and significant player in shaping the social environments in which the Finns live. It is an industry regarded with the same prestige as Nokia and the telecommunications sector. This is definitely one country that we as fresh grads/students should check out." Hanley Tsang

The hospital at Paimio, "Aalto's lung" as it used to be called by the nurses who worked at this former tuberculosis sanatorium, appeared appropriately at the beginning of our journey. Paimio exemplified superbly the symbiosis of landscape and architecture in Finland. Aalto's urban architecture, which we had extensively explored in Helsinki, appeared fully deployed here, in the middle of a forest of tall conifer trees, establishing the context for similar encounters that we were to experience further into our journey: Villa Mairea and the Town Hall at Säynätsalo.

The sauna ritual seems to have been etched deeply in our innermost memories, often woven with those of more practical rituals.

"I was delighted and surprised to see and experience the daily Finnish ritual, the sauna, but was happily astonished to learn that all public buildings are put through an open design competition allowing the public to have input into their built environment. This opportunity and privilege must enhance the country's interest in architecture and claim partial responsibility for its success." Gareth Edwards

And of course on our journey, which took us to the northernmost latitude that most of us had experienced (almost 63° N at Seinäjoki), we encountered many unforgettable sites and cities: Turku, Pori, Rauma, Seinäjoki, Jyväskylä, Säynätsalo, Tampere, and Lahti. They all appeared surreal under the splendid luminosity of the season.

We encountered Finland under the best unusual climatic conditions: balmy and sunny days, which never ended. The only exception occurred the day of the much-desired visit to Aalto's Säynätsalo Town Hall, when a slight drizzle and overcast skies brought us back to the more typical Finnish weather conditions. We were not disappointed, as Aalto's buildings have been designed to respond superbly to these conditions, revealing thus a particular facet of their essence.

"In a country so shaped by its environment, it was easy to draw parallels between the Finnish people, their architecture and how these both relate to nature and the seasons. As we moved quite often between city and forest, we were able to fully appreciate the stark contrasts that define Finland. Throughout our road trip the dense forests were an ever-present foil to the bright and clean urban centres that they engulfed. This was due not only to the crisp architecture, but to the cool light that paradoxically seemed to both fill and emanate from every open space. Having traveled at midsummer (the best time of year to visit, our guides informed us), I had the sense that we were only experiencing one side of the coin, the rational season, when the days last so long that I felt compelled to be out on the street just to experience a city bathed by that light. There was always the awareness, at the back of my mind, that when the irrational season overtook the city, the near-perpetual darkness would emphasize the overwhelming dominance of nature, transforming the city entirely, in a way that I, being from southern Canada, could only partly understand." Michael Conway

No narrative or tale will ever describe this journey that allowed nine graduating students from the McGill School of Architecture and I, their accompanying faculty member and tour conductor, to visit last summer Suomi, the land of the midnight sun. This memorable voyage became a reality thanks to the vision of the late Mrs. Elizabeth Henley Shaver, who made a bequest in memory of her husband to enable architecture students to study in Canada or in other countries. Thanks to the favorable turns of the economy, the scholarship is available today to as many as a dozen recipients, depending on the traveling costs.

"Finland combines incredible lessons in architecture, hospitality, and lifestyle, which reveal themselves humbly and simply. Finland has a lasting and charming character, which always made me feel at home." Emilie Bédard

Voyages are defined by those who conceive them, but also those who contribute to their shaping. I was very fortunate to count on the help of several friends. Professor Gil Sutton from Carleton University, himself an experienced traveler in Scandinavia, gave me invaluable advice pertaining to all matters, from architectural sites to good eateries and musical venues.

Architect and educator Juhani Pallasmaa provided, during one of his visits to our school, a complete itinerary to Finnish architecture. We did our best to complete it, realizing, one-third into the journey, that its completion was a chimera given our limited time. This, in certain instances, could be considered a sign of failure. For us, however, the prospect of its full realization became a personal stimulant. I believe that sooner or later, each one in his or her own way, like Ulysses or Jason, will be able to complete, to close Juhani's circuit.

Finally, Heikki Kokkonen was our true mentor in this journey. I met Heikki through Gil Sutton during my first visit to Finland in the winter of 2001. Thanks to his unconditional help I was able to get then a reasonable picture of Helsinki's extraordinary repertoire of modern and traditional architecture. During our recent visit, my initial encounter with Heikki transformed itself into a true friendship, which has kindled my passion for the architecture, landscape and people of the land of the midnight sun, the land of "aurinko".

"Then a final day to explore Helsinki and enjoy the sunny beach, before jetting back to comparatively boring Canada...and yet we couldn't wait to get home.... homesickness was setting in!" Colin Szasz

There is an old English proverb that states: "All is well that ends well." Finland closed magnificently the journey and the narrative that constitute a significant part of The 2002 Shaver Scholarship Tour to Scandinavia.

By Ricardo M. Castro, MRAIC